Agua Verde and Timbabiche

For the past few days we seem to have been living inside a travel brochure. Gentle breezes to keep boat cool, quiet anchorages under skies full of stars, kayaking among majestic rock formations full of colorful reef fish flashing below, swimming off the boat in crystal clear water, panoramic vistas that belong on the wall of an art gallery, silence, serenity, ahhhhhh.

We stayed in Agua Verde three days, enjoying the flat waters of a protected anchorage, while relaxing and getting re-acquainted with our cruising lifestyle. Agua Verde is a large bay, with a tiny village where we could have gone ashore to visit the tienda for supplies, but chose instead to just hang out around the boat. The scenery is stunning with red cliffs and the unusual green of the hillsides, with the sound of bells tinkling as the goats walk the paths.

With light afternoon NW winds forecast all week, we waited in Agua Verde until the wind came up so that we could fly the Gennaker on our short jaunt to Timbabiche. We only had 20 miles to travel, so once we cleared the point and the attached reef, we set our course and unloosed the Goose! It was only blowing in the 6-7 knot range, with flat seas, so speed really wasn’t the goal, but we held a perfect 3-4 knot speed over ground right along our preferred course, with Otto the auto-pilot keeping us pointed in the right direction. A lone sailboat under power passed us by on their way further down the road and we talked with them for a few minutes, but for the rest of the day it was just Happy Dance and the breeze, with the sound of gentle wind waves sluicing along under the hull and a quick visit by a pod of dolphins swimming by. A cruiser’s dream come true.

We pulled into Timbabiche about an hour before sunset and just like on our last visit, out came Manuel in his panga to greet us. He remembered us, or more importantly, he remembered Marty catching two cabrilla on one hook! We shared a good laugh, and then learned that Manuel and Susanna had had a tough time in Hurricane Odile. Their house was damaged, Susanna had been sick, and the roads were out for a while making it difficult to get food, which of course was much more expensive given the short supply. He was in need of gasoline for his truck to go pick up Susanna, and he needed food. We arranged for him to come back in the morning and have breakfast with us and we’d set him up.

The next morning we made lots of papas and huevos, cafe and pan, (potatoes, eggs, coffee and bread) and shared a good breakfast with Manuel. In our limited Spanish we caught up on all that was happening in Timbabiche, and shared what we knew about the friends we’d been here with on our last visit. Manuel left to go fishing and when he came back he brought us four lobsters and a small cabrilla (snapper). We gave him some food for his pantry, some money to help pay his wife’s doctor bills, a bag of school supplies for the local school that has 21 children, and the one thing he was most excited about…a new flashlight!  It seemed like a really good trade to us. He shared his friendship and we were able to connect with him for just a little while. It’s remarkable how people from such totally different backgrounds can relate on such a simple level when we want to.

So now we’re watching a sunset as the waters quiet down for the evening, and soon we’ll fire up the bar-b-que for some fresh lobster. When we wake up in the morning to another postcard day, we’ll set sail for the anchorage on Isla San Francisco, one of our favorites. We only have another week or so before we need to cross back over to the mainland side and head for La Cruz. We’re so glad to have had some more time in the Sea of Cortez and can’t believe how picture perfect it’s been for us so far. Hopefully the trend will hold and our overnight crossing to Mazatlan will also be a perfect one!

*posted via SSB