From the moment you enter Princess Louisa Inlet you are transported into a miasma of beauty. You have just braved an “S” turn through the Malibu Rapids where all of your attention is focused down on the water; searching for hidden rocks, wondering if the rapids will send your boat sideways into an eddy, keeping a sharp lookout for logs and other flotsam that may impale your boat! And then, you are through and you get a chance to look around or rather, straight up! The steeply plunging cliffs drop right into the water and keep going! We now have 1200 feet under our keel while staring up at the waterfalls dropping from 7000 feet! At first you don’t know where to look. Some bigger waterfalls attract your attention and the cameras start clicking, sounds of wonder and amazement waft from the cockpit, nooks and crannies abound and they all seem to have their own waterfall!
We have hit this short 4 mile inlet at a perfect time! The tops of the mountains have snow on them, the sun is shining, and we are the only ones here… well, almost the only ones! We finally traverse the inlet to the bitter end to find Chatterbox Falls roaring and a 300 foot long dock where there are 2 other boats tied up. Still plenty of room as we figure during the summer there could be as many as 30 boats in this area. But back to the “Mecca of Boating”! Days are spent just watching the waterfalls take shape as the snow melts and finally a quick avalanche to move a small wispy stream into a wide, rushing waterfall as it cascades over the steep rocks. The brochures say there are over 60 waterfalls; I stopped counting after 30! We are tied up so our stern faces Chatterbox Falls and its constant roar, which has actually increased since we first arrived. There is not much level ground here but enough for a small ranger cabin and a few picnic/camping spots so our exploring has been done from the kayaks! One day for the north side of the inlet and another day for the south side. Sue has about 10,000 pictures already and I’ve contributed a few myself.
The days have rushed by as I find myself just sitting in the kayak watching nothing… and everything! Thinking of all that had brought me to this time and place; chasing the dream of a better life, buying a house, marriage, raising children, the daily grind of the endless status meetings, climbing the job ladder! All of those things that were important, and were seemingly important, at the time have all been given their place in my thoughts as just a down payment on the opportunity to be sitting here in this kayak with nothing better to do than to take in the splendor and grandeur of the most beautiful place I have ever seen! Karma, I guess would be as good of a word as any to describe this portion of life where we have no schedules, where status meetings consist of making a decision to stay or go over a glass of wine, and the only ladder that needs climbing is attached to the swim step on the back of the boat!
The latest status meeting included a decision to stay. We were originally thinking of 4 or 5 days here but have decided another 4 or 5 days would be better! So for now, my kayak is waiting as the mergansers are merrily munching minnows, the seals are silently sliding by, the wispy waterfalls continue cascading copious amounts of thawed snow and I have many, many more precocious random thoughts to ponder!